(1) If for whatever reason the kids are unable to nurse, feed Land-o-Lakes Kid milk replacer, no more than 4 oz. per kid at a time, 4-5 times per day for the first week. Gradually increase this as they grow, decreasing the number of feedings, but no less than 3, and really, 4-5 is better for the kids. 16 oz. per kid per day is about right. Watch their feces--they should be yellow-tan, and clumps of pellets. Into each quart of the milk replacer, add the contents of one capsule of powdered acidophilus, available from any good health food store. (Not GNC) We do not recommend the practice of taking kids away from their dam; for no amount of human feeding efforts will begin to take the place of the hundreds of feedings–a few large, but mostly small–that they get each day from nursing.

They should have the milk no less than 3 months; if you can give it longer, so much the better. By the end of the summer, they will be eating hay and grain; at that age, 2 heaping tablespoons of grain per goat per day is plenty, assuming good quality hay. Nigerian Dwarves should be maintained on the 'lean' side; they are not Pygmies and should not lay up fat or get 'chunky.'

(2) Kids will begin to nibble on—not really eating, but chewing on—grass, plants, hay, etc. from an early age. Starting at two weeks of age, put a little good leafy alfalfa near their kid box, in one place, where they will pass by it frequently, and can see that it is different from their bedding hay.

(3) They probably do not need separate water to drink for the first week, then offer a small pan of warm water free-choice, daily. To one quart of water add 1/4 tsp. of good molasses plus 1 drop of Nutribiotic grapefruit seed extract, (a sanitizer and sterilizer) or as an alternative, 5 drops of 35% food-grade hydrogen peroxide (H2O2.) This is available at health food stores.

(4) If they scour–really scour, which means their feces are very runny (which they are not likely to if you maintain the feeding regimen and don't overdo)–then give them only warm water with electrolytes in their bottles for no less than 24 hours, then gradually add the milk formula back, a little at a time, to the water/electrolyte mix.

(5) At age 4 weeks, give them their first vaccination for enterotoxemia type C&D, 1cc sub-Q. Repeat in two weeks, then again in 6 months, and thereafter, twice a year.

(6) Beginning at age 3 weeks or thereabouts, offer them a tiny amount of Calf Manna mixed with 16% dairy ration—no more than a tablespoon. They will play with it, mouth it, but usually not really eat it for several days. Remember that kids are best nourished by good quality hay and free-choice minerals plus water and the milk they get; they really do not need grain—resist the universal temptation to push grain on them. Regard grain as a carrier of vitamins, not as a part of their daily dietary.

(7) Also at 3 weeks, give each one 2cc of Probiocin paste orally. This helps establish the proper bacteria in the rumen.

(8) At 6 to 8 weeks, give an injection of Bo-Se 1/2cc/20-lb; repeat at age 6 months. Check with your vet regarding the need in your area. Many parts of the US are selenium deficient. Thereafter inject once a year 1cc/40-lb.

(9) At age 2 months, offer free-choice iodized salt, soda, loose trace minerals and kelp in a four-compartment feeder, placed where they can reach it. Put out tiny amounts of each at first–a tablespoon–and replenish as consumed; clean and replace at least weekly. Maintain this for life, only increasing the quantity according to the rate of consumption and the number of goats. (Adult goats should have these available free-choice year-around.) Never use salt or mineral blocks for any breeds of goats.

(10) Vaccinate for tetanus, if you choose, as per your vet's suggestion; but no matter what he says, it should be done at least 4x/year. We recommend that you vaccinate for tetanus only if there is a clear need - i.e. the presence of horses, or a recent history of horses on the goat's land. Otherwise, use tetanus antitoxin after surgical procedures such as castration, open wounds, etc.

(11) Kids probably will not need deworming until at least 3 months of age. Use Albendazole the first time, 1cc/15 lbs. orally. Midsummer, use it again, or switch to Tramisol. In the fall, give Ivermectin in a double-weight dose. This should carry you through the first winter unless (a) you have a very wet and warm summer, (b) you have a lot of goats, and/or (c) they are in a confined area.

(12) Goats require shelter from rain, and from wind. They also need psychological space, and a chance to climb—things to climb and jump on. It is better never to confine them unless there is a need, such as illness or injury. They learn quickly to go into their shelter or sleeping area when there is rain or wind, and at dark.

(13) Separate the bucks from the does at 2-1/2 months of age. Best is to put buck kids in an adjacent pen where they can see the other kids but not get to them. Also, each 'pen' should have at least two, but preferably more, goats; all goats need companions.

(14) If one acts droopy, refuses feed, or seems not quite 'right,' then the first thing to do is to take the temperature. Take it rectally with a human or vet thermometer. Normal is 102.5° F. with a range of 101.5° to 103.5° depending on weather and activity. A goat with a temp. of 104Ú should be watched (this can happen on a hot July day when you've chased them around the lot) but 104.5 is definitely a fever and needs attention. Learn to be relieved at fever--it's far better than a falling temperature, which is usually very grave, especially if below 100Ú, and requires a vet's help.

(15) Your 'medicine chest' should contain:

rectal thermometer a couple packets of electrolyte powder

enterotoxemia antitoxin some clean cotton wads

an I.V. set with a 1" x 20-gauge needle a small bottle of 99% DMSO

two liters of Ringers' solution a small container of Co-Ral powder

Probiocin paste a small bottle (50cc) of LA-200

35% hydrogen peroxide, food-grade (available from health-food stores)

a few 3cc syringes with 20-gauge needles 90% denatured alcohol (to sterilize needles, etc.)

one 6cc or 12cc syringe, a small bottle of epinephrine (always carry with you when you give any injections, to insure that you will never have to use it!)

your dewormers (Ivermectin, Albendazole and Tramisol)

a packet of slippery elm powder (from a health food store)

strong iodine solution (for dipping naval cords of newborn kids)

Your 'advanced' medicine chest should also contain:

injectable vitamins (A/D/B-12, B-complex, Liver/B/B-12, E, Bo-se,)

vaginal jelly blood-stop powder

surgeon's disposable gloves a bottle of Gentocin

Blue-Kote or equivalent wound dressing, Granulex wound dressing,

a bottle of Amoxicillin or Ampicillin (no need to buy until you need it, as it has a shorter shelf life) diluted to the stronger concentration,

three 10ml bottles of injectable Chloramphenicol, (which will be hard to find; consult your vet.)

(16) We recommend that you not disbud kids or dehorn older goats. Horns evolved over millions of years, to serve several specific needs goats have; and removing these is making serious, often life-threatening, changes in the goat's physiological and psychological makeup.

(17) Goats are hardy, rugged, independent, intelligent creatures. They need shelter from wind and rain, space, a variety of roughages to browse, clean water and minerals available at all times, minimal stress, and lots of affection. Goats were the first animal of all species to be registered (Toggenburgs; 600 years ago) and have a higher 'I. Q.' than any domesticated animal. Under excellent care, bucks will live to 10-12 years, does to 14-16. Most under domestication live shorter lives: bucks 7-8 years, does 8-10; reflecting a lack of understanding of their needs and care.