This excellent article on raising dairy goat kids was written by Larry and Charlotte Raines in the 1970's and first appeared in the newsletter of the Piedmont (North Carolina) DGA newsletter, Feb. 1975. From there it was picked up and reprinted dozens of times in goat club newsletters coast to coast and the major dairy goat magazines. It was written for dairy goats, but the basic principles are the same with all goat breeds It is as timely today as it was when it appeared, though Larry Raines, one of the most brilliant goat breeders that has walked this planet, has since passed away, and their famous Chinquapin herd of Toggenburgs has long disappeared from the North Carolina mountains. Enjoy - these are the words of a master.

Kid-raising--the gentle art and sweet science--is the all-important area where too often, the gifted geneticist/breeder, competent dairyman and capable husbandryman fail with the same ease as the novice...though with less grace! Assuming that wise and proper selection was made at breeding for anticipated potential in the kid/s and that the dam was brought through term correctly and kidding was successfully accomplished--what next? Well---

First Things First--i.e. colostrum, navel dip, cull or keep, fluff, nourish and love. Then there is Waysand Means--how to raise it--which system? Who's going to be "mama"–bottles, or pans—grain or not, etc. Tsk, tsk- you're not alone; the kid is confused too!

Kid husbandry requires certain skills also, such as disbudding, castrating, tattooing, hoof-trimming, vaccinating, worming, supplementing, and so on and on. Why bother--particularly after considering all those scary kidhood diseases--why indeed? Well-there's the Raiser'sEdge--something rather special that gives a special sort of satisfaction, a far superior kid, and a relationship built upon love, trust and mutual understanding, that can't be purchased at any price. You can't buy depth of stomach, straight topline, strong pasterns and expansive ribbage, the perfect skeleton, disease resistance and durability; and you certainly can't buy a living being that loves and trusts you and is filled with a genuine desire to produce for you as repayment for your "mothership."

You can buy potential—and that's all. You can breed for these qualities, carefully select for them, but never realize them unless you develop them by wise kid-raising.

At the instant of birth you are immediately faced with a critical decision—cull or save! The most humane and appropriate time to cull is now, before the first breath of life has been taken. All grade bucks not to be raised for meat, bucks from does less than excellent in production and conformation, obviously defective animals (hermaphrodites, those with double teats, etc.) should be quickly put in a 5-gallon bucket of water with a weight placed on them - no sound has been uttered and no breath taken. (Note: once the kid is breathing, this suddenly becomes a very inhumane method and the best way then is to resort to chloroform.) Kids to be saved must have the mucus cleared away from their nose and mouth very quickly. The kid no longer enjoys umbilical life support, and must breathe, or be helped to breathe. Use your fingers, quickly, until the kid is breathing well and the respiration sounds clear. Massage by the doe's tongue and your own aiding hand (with paper towels) helps circulation and stimulates the life response. The first few moments are critical--act quickly. Very weak and small kids might require the classic "whack", artificial respiration or even electric shock.

The second decision follows immediately after the first and is certainly argumentative; i.e. which kid-raising system to employ? Kids do seem to prosper very well within the framework of all systems if they are well-executed. The choice is yours:

(1) Immediate removal of kids from the sight and sound of the doe;

(2) Almost immediate removal, after initial nursing of colostrum;

(4) Leaving the kids with the doe for the first several hours, with subsequent removal;

(5) Allowing the doe to keep her kid/s for the first two or three days and then "kid-nap;"

(7) Allowing does to raise kids "au naturale."

Regardless of the kid-raising practice you employ in your herd, it is exceedingly important that no time be wasted in feeding the kid/s colostrum! The special life-preserving properties in colostrum diminish rapidly in value from the time of birth, and the sooner a kid can get colostrum, the better. Difference in colostrum strength at parturition, a few hours after, and 12 to 24 hours afterward, is dramatic. It is prudent to have refrigerated or frozen colostrum in 6 to 8 ounce portions on hand for emergencies. Colostrum can't be strained and certainly shouldn't be diluted. It is usually syrupy, thick and yellow; however it can be white and foamy, though this is rare. Fantastic quantities of vitamin A, calcium concentrate, a natural laxative and untold amounts of antigens and antibodies for disease and infection resistance are all included in this all-important substance. If at all possible, see that the kids receive this within 30 minutes of birth; sooner if they will accept. The kids will accept this from a small bowl or bottle at this initial feeding from you, just as readily as from their mother. In fact they seem to prefer the bowl to the bottle or mother's teats. But–the temperaturemust be right. It must be very hot--blood or body heat (101-102° F.)– when tested on the inner wrist. If the kid refuses, 90% of the time it is wrong temperature rather than any other cause—a one-degree variance can cause refusal.

Synthetic colostrum can be used in an emergency. There are various formulations published, made with goat milk with egg yolks and castor oil. A formula of liquid organic vitamins A, D & E from vegetable sources, (from vitamin supplements sold in health food stores) and mixed with goat milk and a mild laxative, seems a better choice even though no synthetic mixture will contain the all-important special protective antibodies and antigens that are present in genuine colostrum. That is why the wise goat-keeper will keep some frozen colostrum on hand, or seek first to obtain some from a fellow goat-keeper, before resorting to the synthetic.

The first bowel movement should follow soon after ingestion of the colostrum, and should be black and tarry with a pasty consistency. If the kids are with the doe, she will probably clean this off; but do note the occurrence of this initial movement; it is very important.

The navel dip should be accomplished as soon as is practicable; i.e. within 15 minutes of birth or sooner. Tying off the navel cord about 1-1/2 inches below the stomach with dental floss is a wise practice as it helps block entry of foreign organisms and at the same time prevents hemorrhage. Excess cord beyond the tie can then be cut with sterile scissors. Then the entire remaining cord and stump should be dipped in strong 7% iodine solution, and really saturated. In a few hours it is advisable to dip again—infection must be guarded against. Then a mixture of iodine and 70% isopropyl alcohol half and half can be used for subsequent dips; or just the alcohol with is very astringent. It is good practice to continue dipping the cord and stump area twice daily until the cord is completely dried up and the stump area healed to a point where bacterial or viral invasion is unlikely.

The kid/s should be placed in a cozy box with clean bedding so as not to be underfoot while the doe finishes birthing. It is important to quickly get the little ones dry and fluffy. The rubbing stimulates the life responses and a chill is not wanted now! Kids can stand very cold temperatures but no drafts. Some allow the doe to do the drying or at least assist--this is an excellent idea as she generally does a far better job with her tongue than you can accomplish with paper towels or sterile rags. This is not only reassuring to the mother, but stimulates uterine contractions and milk let-down.

Now it is time to nourish again. A little bit often is the key to success in the first several hours, several days, and weeks. A decision must be made at this point as to what system you will use or modify to your individual conditions, to raise the kids.

There are probably as many systems of kid-raising as there are goat-keepers. There is the perennial argument of natural versus artificial. There is even argumentative discussion over pan versus bottle. To advocate one system over another is tantamount to professional suicide; however, the kid will probably prosper in spite of which system we choose. I would like to offer a few guidelines for consideration.

(l) You no longer have a "natural" animal. Centuries of breeding have created a very high-producing animal with a highly specialized and enlarged milk gland. The kids may injure the udder once they are over a week old. Incidence of mastitis is increased.

(2) For whatever reason, the kids will accept colostrum from a pan or bowl at first more readily than from a bottle--they object to the rubber lamb nipple. Bottle feeding is preferred by most goat keepers during the first three weeks as colic and air ingestion is less likely. Pan feeding is much more convenient and seems to do no harm from the age of three weeks on.

(3) Variance of the system you choose or possibly a compromise is often indicated within the herd due to special considerations. Do not stick to one system if it is not advisable in light of a particular doe's situation. For example, a doe with hard udder (udder edema) can certainly use the massage and punching of the kids and the continued emptying of the congested udder. (You might leave her kids with her for several days.) Another case in point would be the doe who is striving for the "mother supreme award" and is overendowed with maternal instinct--her offspring should be kidnapped immediately! As Emerson so aptly put it, "Consistency is the hobgoblin of a small mind." Each doe is unique and deserves specific consideration. You must choose the system that best suits the kids, the does, your herd, your facilities, and your personal schedule and gut feelings.

Refer back now to the main systems, or practices, on the first pages.

Here is a very typical schedule which is workable and representative of excellent goat husbandry. It comes from Ms. Diane Zierman, taken from Gopher Goat Gossip, the January, 1975 issue:

1st day through 3rd day 7 oz. colostrum 4 times per day, kids also nursing dams at will

4th day through 5th day 10 oz. milk 4 times per day with kids nursing at night only

6th day 10 oz. milk 4 times per day without nursing

7th day through 12th day 10 oz. milk 3 times per day

at 3 weeks 15 oz. milk 3 times per day

at 4 weeks. 1-1/2 cups water with 1-1/2 cups milk in the bottle 3 times per day

at 2 months start water in bottle only; (warm) and begin to pan feed.

Kids generally show very poor judgement about water consumption; i.e. either too little or too much. About the third week, add 2 ounces to one feeding, next day add 2 ounces to two feedings and the third day, 2 oz. are diluted in milk in all three feedings. The proportion of water is increased through the 4th and 5th week until the ration is 50% water. Hay consumption is the guide—cause and effect—more hay indicates less whole milk and less whole milk encourages more hay consumption. Water should be offered warm and in reasonable amounts between feedings. Only after weaning is it safe to offer water free choice, thereby preventing the "glut" and subsequent scours.

Here at Chinquapin herd we raise kids in a manner seemingly contradictory to the accepted practices. Our kid-raising and goat husbandry tends more toward the European philosophy (see GoatHusbandry, David Mackenzie) than the American "convenience" method. In kid-raising we essay to accomplish the following:

l- The Skeleton—from birth to 18 months we help the growing animal to create a life-time reserve of mineral deposits in the "bank" so necessary for top production, disease and parasite resistance and longevity. We desire a "rangy" skeleton of excellent dimension with the emphasis on width.

2- A Ruminant—from the very beginning we build a ruminant. We want our animals to consider roughage, hay, browse and pasture as the staff of life with grain as a supplement. Highly developed rumens that are capacious and that operate efficiently are the result of feeding habits and practice. The expansive ribbage and depth of stomach are a result of husbandry; selective breeding only establishes the potential for these desirable dairy characteristics. The animals should relish hay and roughage, and ingest great quantities of water willingly and naturally.

3- Early maturity. Freshening at 12-15 months is requisite. Early maturation and development is the result of perfect calcium/phosphorus ratio, ample trace minerals and vitamins, and the progressive development of the skeleton and rumen.

4- Temperament. The love, trust and reciprocal devotion is conditioned and reinforced throughout the animals' youth. Goat-raised kids never completely trust or accept people. (Ed. note–I must disagree with that word "never"–many will and do, others won't, accept or trust people–much also depends on how the kid/s are treated and the natural temperament of the goat-keeper.) A "people-goat" gives milk copiously and completely out of love. Docile animals with gentle temperament produce higher than the "barn politician," the high-strung or nervous type, or those suspicious of humans. (Ed. note—again, this depends on the goat; some boss goats will get more than their share of the choicest hay, etc. and will therefore produce more than the timid goat that always hangs in the background.)

The four above-mentioned qualities are seldom the result of chance, but more often the rewards of a goal-oriented kid-raising program. Consider the following:

1st Several Hours Feed hot colostrum to the kids, thereby establishing your motherhood rights; then allow the kids to nurse. Make certain that each kid gets two or more good feedings from you or the doe. You can accomplish this while drying out and fluffing the kids, dipping the umbilical cord and finishing up with the birthing. Nourish, hold and love.

Balance of First Day Generally we separate the kids from the doe and they must be completely out of her sight and sound. Warm colostrum is offered them, though it is sometimes refused, or begrudgingly accepted in small quantities. Don't despair–you will succeed and the kids will eventually take nourishment greedily and adopt you as full-fledged "mother." Never heard of one so stubborn that it starved itself to death, though a few hard-heads will make you have doubts at times. In very cold weather, we place a heat lamp high–several feet above–the kids. (We use the Sears single-bulb Brooder Lamp with 250-watt infrared bulb & reflector, with metal guards and thermostat.) Don't heat the kids! Just keep the chill out of the air--50°-60° is adequate for the cold kid will move nearer to the lamp and the warm kid can back off to a corner and stay comfortable.

2nd and 3rd Day Colostrum/milk 6-8 oz. 4 or 5 times per day. If the kids have been left with the dam due to specific circumstances (i.e. hard udder) the feedings are still offered although the amounts consumed will be less. Feed a little bit, but frequently–that's the golden rule.

4th, 5th & 6th Day 10 oz. milk 4 times per day with lots of love. Disbudding should occur before a feeding so that a bottle of warm milk and a little love will lessen the shock and reassure the kids.

7th through 14th Day 10-12 oz.milk 3 or 4 times daily determined by the size and vigor of the kids. Bright green hay in quantity, free choice, available at all times. Note the absence of grain? We do not offer grain until after weaning as it delays good rumen development and cud-chewing, and invites type D enterotoxaemia. We want to develop "hay-burners." Introduce available browse–saplings, twigs, leaves, whatever is available at that time of year–even bark. Limit green succulents and leave no wilted refused browse in the mangers. Little may be eaten, but all will be sampled and chewed somewhat.

3rd through 4th week 12-14 ounces milk 3 times per day with free-choice hay, pasture & browse. Begin dilution of milk with 2 oz. water (see "a word about water") and gradually increase through the third week until the fourth week which should be about 1/3 water + 2/3 milk. The idea is to increase desire for and therefore consumption of hay and roughage without increase of fluid. Cud chewing should be in evidence by now. Two free-choice loose salt mixtures should be made available at this time: plain salt in one container and a special mixture of salt, copper and iron in another. The iron & copper salt is vital to milk-fed kids, as their requirement is great and goats' milk contains neither element. An iodized salt should be used.

5th through 6th week 12-15 oz. milk/water mixture three times per day during the 5th week with formula now half water and half milk. Conversion from bottle to pan feeding could have been accomplished at any time from 3 weeks forward. At 6th week feedings are cut to twice daily. Basically, we are weaning the kids from milk and their natural hunger will cause compensatory eating of hay and genuine relish for browse and pasture. This practice does not stunt or limit growth as one might think. Once or twice daily water is offered and occasional offerings of grain in small (less than a hand full) quantities are now made. The growth rate, size and vigor of the kids best determines the weaning date, however we would like for the kids to be weaned by the end of the 8th week. When rumen activity and development is a certain accomplishment, we may then again go back to milk feeding and with no dilution. Water is made available free-choice now that we are sure of the kids' judgement in drinking it.

7th and 8th weeks Assuming the above, the 7th week offers two options. The first alternative is to feed 1/2 pound of grain in the morning and 16 ounces whole milk in the evening. The second alternative is to feed 1/2 lb. of grain twice daily, increasing to 3/4 lb. twice daily by the end of the 8th week. Regardless of which alternate is chosen, by the end of the 8th week we have a rangy, fast-growing kid consuming great quantities of hay, putting in full days on pasture, and foraging for browse in a workmanlike manner. Copious quantities of water are now being consumed, and a third selection of salt (complete trace-mineralized salt mixture with 1:1 calcium/phosphorus ratio) should be made available. The biggest treat and greatest good for the kids can be accomplished by bringing armfuls of browse--wholesome cuttings, tree trimmings, etc. Grain allowance is very, very gradually increased upwards from the initial to no more than 3/4 lb. twice daily at 26 weeks (6 months). Surplus milk is occasionally offered. (See "Against the Grain")

9th week through 6th month The growing kids receive milk and/or grain as a supplement to their diet, not a mainstay. Dependence is placed upon great quantities of hay, browse and pasture. The skeletal structure is "under construction" and the mineral bank is being built. The goat now has a highly developed rumen, expanded ribbage and the depth of stomach so desired. Breeding is imminent; size and weight will determine.

6th Month Onward The buckling used for breeding will need an increase in grain (gradually) up toward 1 lb. twice daily. The grain ration will be increased to bring the doeling up to breeding size and weight, by 1 lb. twice daily (hopefully she will be ready to breed by the 7th, 8th, or 9th month.) Surplus milk is offered whenever possible.

Milk Replacer Usable--but we don't use it as full formula. Better is 50% goat milk and 50% replacer. Goats do not like replacer with cocoanut in the formula.

Grain. A simple home-made ration is better than the best commercial product. Low protein is more desirable than the "steer fattener" type rations. A good formula is as follows: 40 lbs. corn, 40 lbs. oats, 5 lbs. dry molasses pulp, 10 lbs. wheat bran and 5 to 8 lbs. of soybean meal with 1 lb. of monocalcium phosphate. Corn is better rolled or cracked than steel-cut. A ration with a protein content of 12-14%, with high fibre content of more than 10% is most desirable.

An animal raised with grain as its principle mainstay will never realize its potential in health, growth, milk production or longevity. Hay keeps the goat warm in severe winter (through microbial action) and provides "air-conditioning" during hot summer, while the grain-fed animal either shivers or overheats. The sick goat can't digest or eat grain—if she's dependent on it, what then? The genuine "milch goat" is a highly-mineralized skeleton supporting a big intestine under a weather-proof hide. Slight ribbage, shallow stomach and refined structure is not a milk-factory; nor can it ingest great quantities of raw products for conversion to a generous milk supply.

Grain is like candy, desserts, soft drinks and confections to a child--they love it but it generally deters appetite, is harder to digest and just not healthy in great quantity. How much grain a goat can handle is determined by the amount of hay and roughage she eats; therefore in a high-producing animal (10-18 lbs.of milk daily) great ruminant capacity with high roughage consumption is requisite in order to handle the large grain ration necessary to sustain this level of productivity. Feeding the growing kid heavy grain rations negates both desire and capacity for roughage consumption. Good hay, browse and roughage is as fine quality feed as grain; even better for ruminants; however it is more inconvenient for the goat keeper to provide. Sooo—if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen! The highly grain/urea-fed dairy cow has a life expectancy of about 6 years; whereas the old family milk cow on pasture produced well for 20 years..."burned out" is the descriptive phrase—very revealing! (Cows are ruminants too!)

The doeling raised as a ruminant will freshen without excess fatty tissue in the udder, not deliver over-size kids, & be able to produce while continuing her growth and can ingest higher quantities of grain as she eats the proportionate amount of hay and roughage so necessary for good digestion and efficient assimilation of feedstuffs. The lovely, slick, rounded, fleshy, hide-bound grain-fed pet realizes little of the tremendous potential bred into her. One of our 1974 kids was raised totally without grain. The skeletal structure, musculature, size, growth and vigor is astounding.

Then why the grain?

Very simply--we have created an animal that at times—pregnancy & lactation—cannot eat enough to meet her requirements; therefore we feed grain. In travels I note that the high-producing herds have far more footage of manger space, more watering buckets strategically placed, and more pasture per animal. High-producing dry-lot herds have roughage, and bulk feeds, brought to the animals.

The hay, roughage and browse produce milk and the capacity to handle the grain we must feed to sustain the doe that we have bred in a manner that causes her needs to outstrip her intake. Develop that rumen--that's your goat!

Disbud. Generally speaking, bucks at 5 days and does at 7 days. Descenting if desired should be accomplished at the same time. Scurs will result if the horn-growing skin is not destroyed; an inexpensive iron is about as good as an expensive one if tip sizes are correct. Hornless kids will have a circular hair pattern and the tiny hard horn buds can't be detected by feeling. Firm but not forcing pressure is exerted on the iron; enough to hold it in place without slippage. Burn 8 to 15 seconds—temperature of iron and thickness of skin are variables. 8-12 seconds for does, 10-15 for bucks. These are the steps to follow: (1) Trim hair with blunt cuticle scissors, (2) wipe with alcohol, (3) make initial burn, rocking iron in a circular motion to get even tissue destruction, (4) allow iron to reheat while resting and cooling the kid's head, (5) burn other horn bud, (6) now, inspect and feel. (7) Re-burn if necessary after head cools to touch, possibly changing location of iron tip--not as long this time. (8) Re-inspect and continue until a satisfactory job is done; however, always allow head to cool and don't burn to a visible skull. Option: cut off the center of the button with a sterile, sharp knife and cauterize with the side of the iron tip as this prevents the inevitable accident later with head-scratching. slight bleeding and an open wound inviting infection. Descent: at a 45° angle inward from each horn bud, toward the rear of the goat, is an unusually wrinkled skin type that indicates the musk-gland area. Half the tip width should cover and destroy this as disbudding was done. (9) Coat with an antiseptic salve such as Thuja-Zinc Oxide Ointment, Sulpha-Urea Ointment, or in the case of bucks where the burning area is larger, Sulpha Phenacaine or Benzocaine helps numb the area. The only pain should occur at the first instant of burning- afterwards none as the nerve endings are destroyed. Should continued pain be evident there is a partially burned area due to slippage, or whatever. Spirits of Ammonia is helpful for fainty kids or goat-keepers!

Hoof Trimming. This is a most-neglected facet of kid–raising. The kids hooves require very careful trimming in order to keep them standing square. Due to their activity and penchant for play, their hooves usually wear nicely and require only slight, but very important trimming. Seldom does the frog (soft fleshy heel) require more than mere shaping with excess tissue between halves removed to bring the two parts together. The toe is quite another matter. The toes need trimming so as to keep the bottom of the hoof parallel with the hair line where the hoof joins the pastern. Avoid a rounded rocking-chair hoof--strive for flatness that brings the kid forward, standing toward the toe. Under no circumstances allow rolled hoof edges that harbor foot rot and decayed matter. Many cases referred to as a "cow-hocked" kid are nothing more than the signal for corrective hoof trimming—i.e. slightly more removal of hoof on the outside half and toe to bring the balance and weight outward. Like feeding kids--a little bit often is good husbandry.

Supplement. The milk-fed kid from three weeks of age requires availability not only of plain iodized salt but also of a variety of minerals, best supplied by kelp meal. The weanling at 6 weeks of age also requires an excellent trace mineral salt mixture with a 1:1 calcium/phosphorus ratio. After 6 months of age, doelings and bucklings should be provided with the mineral "cafeteria" so they can select according to their own special requirements. The feeding of free-choice kelp meal is certainly conducive to fine skeletal growth and good maturation.

Worming 5 to 6 weeks of age is not too early to start a worm control program with growing kids. (Ed. note--4 weeks is perfectly all right and may be necessary in some situations.) Patterns of two wormings at 15-day intervals are far more effective than single occasional wormings. Most instances of poor growth in kids and poor assimilation of foodstuffs are the result of neglect in worming. Some worms are in the kid at birth; infection is prenatal. Even in the cleanest premises a kid's curious nibblings and trial tastings will result in the ingestion of worms. Almost all kids have a bout with coccidia during their early kidhood (see Kidhood diseases). It is just plain stupid to wait for the signs of worm infestation to appear.

There are many specific disease possibilities, but of such rare instance that it would be impractical to cover them in this article. However there are 7 diseases that deserve comment: tetanus, overating disease, joint-ill, coccidi infestation, scours, worms and herd ailments. The good herdsman is quick to spot any unusual behavior changes in his stock and alertness with quick appropriate action is the winning move. If a kid doesn't look "right"--shows the slightest change in eating habits, behaviour, attitude, etc. then go back often and observe–your vigilance will be rewarded.

Tetanus is best prevented by a vaccination prior to disbudding, tattooing, castrating, or immediately after a skin-breaking wound. Should you be remiss in this and the kid show early symptoms–localized stiffness, neck or hind legs stiff, sawhorse stance, spasms, difficulty chewing, etc. take the kid to a vet immediately for diagnosis and prognosis.....either have the kid put to sleep or if odds are 50-50, institute treatment. Promptness is essential.

Enterotoxemia/ Type D Sometimes called "pulpy kidney" or overeating disease, happens particularly to young kids (l week to several months) usually from over-rich diet, lush pasture, but particularly to grain-fed kids. Usually the first symptom is finding the kid dead! Lack of full appetite at a meal can mean a dying kid 5 or 6 hours later. Excitement, incoordination and convulsions generally occur before death. Circling, head against wall, fixed stare are sometimes evident as is diarrhea. Note—post-mortem will rarely reveal "pulpy kidney" in goatlings. High roughage consumption is as preventative as vaccination. Massive doses of Terramycin might help--but B,C & D antitoxin is indicated.

Coccidiosis is almost as certain as death & taxes! Unthriftiness, diarrhea, lack of appetite are symptomatic though with kids this may be a now-and-then occurrence. A 3-day course of Sul-met drenched will be effective in some cases; whereas three appropriate doses of Tox-i-Ton at 7-day intervals will cure most cases. Some goats have acute attacks with bloody stools and need sulfanomide therapy and others are mildly affected, which creates diagnostic difficulty. A few goats show natural resistance and some are chronically plagued throughout their mature life. In many instances an expert fecal analysis with correct therapy is the best course of action.

Joint Ill is a terrible disease occurring to kids about 1 month (suppurative) or 1 to 5 months of age (non-suppurative). Morbidity is very high....treatment must be started very early or the outlook is very dim. First symptoms are acute lameness, diminished suckle reflex, swollen joints progressing from one to all very rapidly with fever, and complicating pneumonia-like respiratory difficulty. A treatment suggested by "Miss Katie" which is as workable as can be hoped for is as follows: Large dose of Pen-strep Combiotic and 5cc oxytetracycline (Terramycin) initially; then 5cc Terramycin for 5 days, 4cc for 4 days, 3cc for 3 days, 2cc for 2 days, then finally 1cc (note; place no more than 2cc in one injection site). Tylan 200 injection/s should be given at any sign of respiratory complication. Rumen activity which is depressed by Terramycin can be aided by a few ounces of cultured buttermilk and/or yogurt twice daily. The shots are very painful and the little one will need petting, to be held in the lap and loved after each treatment. Frequent visits to the isolated kid with treats, goodies, choice tid-bits of browse, fresh green beans, blackberry leaves and tender apple tree cuttings will help sustain the "will-to-live" so important for recovery. Post-crises treatment may require Prednisolone injections into swollen joints (a matter for the vet). The odds are against recovery, but determination will often win the battle.

Worms & External Parasites are the growing kid's greatest enemies. Neglect to worm often and follow up accounts for so many disappointments. Use of TBZ-2, Thiabendazole, or such is recommended. Tox-i-Ton is good as an alternate. Tramisol might be indicated in early fall prior to breeding, NOT afterwards. Lice and mites can easily drain from the kids the fine care and nutrition so carefully given. If the kid picks at itself or shows the tell-tale roughed, tufted hair--dust with Co-Ral or appropriate powder. (Note: this was written before the spectrum of modern dewormers was available; TBZ is really not recommended today as most parasites have developed resistance.)

Adult and Herd Problems. Whatever diseases have evidenced themselves in your mature animals are to be considered suspect in your kids. Be vigilant! If Coryne or such is in the herd, you must exercise preventative measures with the kids. If the kid's sire or dam have particular familial susceptibilities or problems, watch for these in the progeny. A healthy kid with an excellent nutrition program has great disease resistance.

Scours The occurrence of scours (diarrhea) in kids is most frequently caused by overfeeding; i.e. too much milk at one time spills over into the next stomach compartment where it sours, resulting in digestive upset. Feeding too often, feeding the kid that already has a stomach full of hay will also cause scours. The kids' poor judgement of what and how much to eat, unsanitary utensils, worm infestation and coccidia rank 3rd in incidence while bacterial invasion is another possibility. Promptly with-hold grain and cut milk ration to a minimum. If cause is known, treat with appropriate measures. Sulmet or terramycin calf-scour boluses are usually effective oral treatment; however exercise caution that rumen activity is not destroyed. Cultured buttermilk with a pinch of baking soda and vinegar helps restore activity and has a soothing detoxifying effect. Extreme cases of scouring are indicative of a serious condition and sterner measures are required—antibiotic therapy may be indicated. Pepto-Bismol or similar (human) preparations containing pepsin, bismuth and kaolin are beneficial (Paregoric is helpful if cramping is severe.) Home remedies such as boiled blackberry root tea or scorched cornstarch gruel sometimes bring dramatic relief. Stopping the scours early before dehydration from fluid loss occurs is hoped for. Amino-acid/electrolyte therapy is helpful in cases of extreme dehydration. Prevention is always easier than treatment.

The introductory section of this article should have made this commentary redundant; however there is more to consider. The often-quoted "old saws" such as "A great part of the breeding is in the feeding" and "75% of the breeding goes down the throat" are really more meaningful than the lip service given them. It is no wonder that the uninitiated blink wildly when pricing a properly raised kid or bred first freshener. Yes—the price is very high, and well-worth it. A well-raised buckling or doeling will out-live, out-produce and surpass by far the "average" goat. So much has been developed, put in reserve and structure, that realization of genetic potential is almost assured. Most serious breeders will not sell a well-raised kid at any price but rather, keep them as herd replacements.

The reason that great goats are scarce is that most people can't raise them (lack of knowledge) or won't raise them (lack of dedication.) Be different--raise greatness!

The Raines' article was concluded by describing a mixture of salt and minerals for the kids; but the passage of time and the availability of new nutritional supplements for goats has made that information outdated At the present, we suggest that kids be offered, in feeders placed so that they can reach them and protected so that the adult goats won't soil them, (a) iodized salt, (b) kelp meal (c) baking soda, and (d) a mixture of salt with ferrous ammonium citrate, cobalt carbonate and copper sulfate; all free-choice.